Hot Rodding a Power Drill Battery

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I had a bit of brainstorm and decided to help you open this thing up and discover what makes it break. It's funny, I always thought there might possibly be some mystical magical part of power tool batteries of which justified the outrageous fees... you know, custom designed or ethereal glowing lamps or little elves and / or something. Turns out they're just just a rip apart. Fortunately for me the actual internals were looking familiar, a simple set regarding "Sub C" rechargable NiCd panels from my RC truck racing days. I would always build my own racing battery packs thus couldn't help applying this here. I had thoughts of using batteries that power world championship RADIO CONTROLLED cars and transform a moderately powered B&amp; D towards a drill that would earn screws and yet-to-be-drilled gaps tremble with unspeakable terror. When you open the facility tools battery you ought to save some plastic parts detailed below. Don't escape them.
At this point I delivered to reality. The racing batteries alone would cost numerous bucks. So, I settled even on a brand name NiCd phone from GP. The main difference within the stock batteries is why these are 2000 mAh cells along with the stock ones are exclusively 1700 mAh... so I will get more run time... basically a bigger vehicle's gas tank. These fellas cost people $1. 79 each on a grand total of $21. 72 from Budget Batteries. A long way so good. In case you just aren't good at math, some 14. 4 battery normally requires 12 1. 2V cells to help with making up a pack.
Next standing on the bill of components are some RC sections. These 24k gold plated power bars are from Novak off road racing. I couldn't skimp everywhere you go. A bag of 30 was about $14. 00 because of Tower Hobbies. I only needed 10 to collect one pack, but May very well another drill battery holding out do die. So, that's five bucks for ones bars and up that will $26. 48 total. Still ten bucks shy of the highest quality retail price I found ($35. 00) Incidentally the fact that price was direct coming from battery black and decker.
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Finally we've found some 14AWG high versatility silicone wire from a second RC company. Just have this lying around and also I only needed related to 3 inches so shall we call it free. Vendors . using good quality cable here. Your battery will only be virtually the weakest link. I favor not to have whatever weak links. This will be a likely spot for that meltdown if your wire seriously isn't up to the challenge.
I paried the tissues and bound them with electrical tape mention a few make them easier to help you solder together. These buggers are a little bit hard to sustain. Don't forget to tin both ends of your battery before you try to attach the bars. A drop of flux and then a drop of solder, not much more though. I should mention you do need a pretty serious soldering iron to obtain this job done. You shouldn't overheat the battery... particular a catch 22 right here.
After getting the electric battery assembled I removed typically the electical tape. The bars are really rigid and have not an issue holding the pack at the same time. Soldering the bars upon and getting everything to mattress group is the hard a part. Be patient. The real tricky part is a cell that sits as well as the pack. (red wire attached) That top-most battery sticks up towards the shank of the electric case. The little black plastic-type bit houses the store connectors that mate when using the actual drill and charger... so save that and give any focus on brake it. The top craftsman battery requires to be attached to the solar battery direcly below it plus sit slightly offset. B&amp; D accomplishes this along with another plastic part that tossed. I used one of the many stock battery bars we pulled off the stock battery pack since they were small and flexible. Both batteries were soldered into the sock bar while we were looking at sitting next together. Then, to move the main onto the top, We folded the battery bar by 50 %... clear as mud... I'm assuming I should have taken a picutre. Finally I wrapped the actual of the top solar battery with electrical tape to counteract any shorting
Well, it is it. Took about two hours from come to finish and it returned into the case fairly nicely. The Novak battery bars were included with stickers. I love of which, so I put a Novak sticker on this subject one so I may know which pack appeared to be my uber pack. Imposed it, put it within the drill and it runs such as a champ. You can hear the difference as opposed to stock battery. This puppy is exactly begging for some heavy drilling. Time to pull some screws due to a big crate. <! --INFOLINKS_OFF-->.